Agedashi Tofu

Ingredients

• 400 g firm tofu, drained
• 400 ml water, for the dashi
• 5 g dried kombu, wiped with a damp cloth
• 10 g dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi)
• 3 tbsp light soy sauce
• 2 tsp sugar
• 4 tbsp potato starch or cornflour, for dusting
• 300 ml neutral oil, for shallow frying
• 80 g white radish (mooli), peeled and finely grated
• 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated
• 2 spring onions, thinly sliced
• chilli flakes or shichimi togarashi, to taste
• 2 cups steamed short-grain or plain rice, to serve

Instructions

1. Wrap the tofu in a clean tea towel or a few layers of kitchen paper, set a plate on top and weigh it down with a tin. Leave it to press for 15 minutes so the surface dries out and fries crisp.
2. Meanwhile, put the water and kombu in a small saucepan and warm over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Take the kombu out just before the water starts to boil, as it turns bitter if boiled.
3. Bring the kombu water to a gentle boil, add the bonito flakes and turn off the heat. Let them sink and steep for 2 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve. You need about 350 ml of dashi.
4. Return the dashi to the pan with the soy sauce and sugar. Warm over low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then keep it hot but not boiling.
5. Squeeze the grated radish lightly to remove excess water. Pat the pressed tofu dry and cut it into 6 even cubes or thick rectangles.
6. Spread the starch on a plate. Roll each piece of tofu in it until evenly and thinly coated, then shake off the excess. Fry straight away, as the coating turns gummy if it sits.
7. Heat the oil in the frying pan over medium-high heat until a pinch of starch sizzles at once (about 180°C). Lower in the tofu in batches, leaving space between pieces.
8. Fry for 6 to 8 minutes, turning every minute or so, until all sides are pale golden and the coating feels firm and crisp. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
9. Divide the tofu between two deep bowls. Pour the hot broth around the tofu, not over it, so the crust stays crisp for a little longer.
10. Top each bowl with a mound of grated radish, a little ginger, spring onions and chilli flakes. Serve at once with rice.

Tips

• Pressing the tofu properly is the key step. Wet tofu spits in the oil and the coating will not crisp.
• Coat the tofu only when the oil is hot. Starch left on damp tofu turns sticky and slides off.
• Keep the broth hot but below a boil, and add it just before serving. The coating softens slightly in the broth, which is how the dish is meant to be.
• Fry in batches if the pan is small. Crowding drops the oil temperature and gives greasy tofu.