Goan Fish Curry

Ingredients

• 600 g firm white fish steaks (such as surmai, rohu or sea bass), cut into thick pieces
• ½ tsp turmeric powder, divided
• 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• 1 cup freshly grated coconut or desiccated coconut soaked in warm water for 10 minutes and drained
• 6 dried Kashmiri red chillies, stems removed
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 5 black peppercorns
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1 tbsp tamarind paste, or a lime-sized ball of tamarind soaked in warm water and strained
• 3 tbsp vegetable or coconut oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 3 green chillies, slit lengthwise
• 1½ cups warm water, plus more if needed
• 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped, to finish

Instructions

1. Pat the fish dry and rub it with 1/4 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp salt. Set aside in the fridge while you make the masala.
2. Toast the dried chillies, coriander seeds, cumin and peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darker, about 1 to 2 minutes. Tip onto a plate to cool.
3. Blend the toasted spices with the coconut, garlic, tamarind and 1/2 cup of the warm water to a smooth, fine paste. Add a splash more water if the blender struggles.
4. Heat the oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Fry the onion with a pinch of salt for 6 to 7 minutes, until soft and light golden.
5. Add the tomatoes and remaining 1/4 tsp turmeric. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, mashing with the spoon, until the tomatoes break down and the oil begins to separate at the edges.
6. Stir in the coconut paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, so the raw taste cooks out. Pour in the remaining 1 cup of warm water and add the green chillies and 1/2 tsp salt.
7. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat and cook for 4 minutes so the flavours join. The gravy should coat a spoon lightly; add a little water if it is too thick.
8. Slide in the fish pieces in a single layer. Cover and simmer gently for 5 to 6 minutes, until the fish is opaque and flakes easily with a fork. Do not stir; shake the pan gently instead.
9. Taste and adjust salt or tamarind. Turn off the heat, scatter over the coriander and rest the curry, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

Tips

• Use firm fish steaks on the bone if you can; they hold their shape and add flavour to the gravy.
• Keep the simmer gentle once the fish goes in. Hard boiling breaks the pieces apart and can split the coconut.
• Kashmiri chillies give colour with mild heat. Add a pinch of hot chilli powder if you like it fiery.
• The curry tastes better after resting, so make it an hour ahead if you can.