Karelay Pyaz (Bitter Gourd with Caramelised Onions)

Ingredients

• 500 g karela (bitter gourd), ridges scraped lightly, trimmed and cut into 5 mm rounds
• 1½ tsp fine salt, divided (1 tsp for salting, the rest for cooking)
• 4 tbsp cooking oil, divided
• 3 large onions (about 400 g), sliced into half-moons
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 2 green chillies, slit lengthwise
• ½ tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp red chilli powder, or to taste
• 1 tbsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp jaggery or brown sugar, grated
• 1 tsp amchur (dried mango powder)
• 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped

Instructions

1. Cut the karela into 5 mm rounds and pick out any large, tough seeds. Toss with 1 tsp salt in a bowl and leave to rest for 30 minutes; you will see beads of green liquid on the surface.
2. Squeeze the karela firmly in handfuls to press out the liquid, then rinse briefly and pat completely dry with a clean cloth. Dry pieces brown instead of steaming.
3. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Add the karela in a single layer, working in two batches if needed, and fry for about 10 minutes in total, turning now and then, until the edges are deep brown and slightly crisp. Lift out onto a plate.
4. In the same pan, add the remaining 1 tbsp oil over medium heat. Add cumin and fennel seeds and let them sizzle for 20 seconds until fragrant.
5. Add the sliced onions with a pinch of the remaining salt. Cook, stirring often, for about 8 minutes until soft and golden brown at the edges.
6. Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and cook for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add turmeric, red chilli powder and coriander powder with a splash of water (2 tbsp) and stir for 30 seconds.
7. Return the karela to the pan. Add the jaggery and the remaining salt, mix well, then cover and cook on low heat for 6 minutes until the karela is tender when pierced with a fork.
8. Uncover, sprinkle in the amchur and cook for 2 minutes on medium heat, stirring gently, until any moisture has dried and the oil shows at the edges. Finish with fresh coriander and taste for salt.

Tips

• Choose small, bright green karela; they have fewer seeds and are less bitter than large, pale ones.
• Do not skip drying the salted pieces. Wet karela turns soft and grey instead of crisp.
• The jaggery is not to make the dish sweet; a small amount balances the bitterness. Add a little more if you are new to karela.
• Cook the onions slowly until golden. Pale onions leave the dish sharp rather than rounded.