Mutton Yakhni Pulao

Ingredients

• 800 g bone-in mutton, cut into medium pieces (shoulder or chops)
• 450 g basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear
• 1.3 l water, for the yakhni (stock)
• 1 onion, quartered, for the stock
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste, divided (half for stock, half for frying)
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
• 1 tbsp fennel seeds
• 10 black peppercorns
• 4 cloves
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 1 black cardamom pod
• 1 cinnamon stick, about 5 cm
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• 100 ml cooking oil or ghee
• 2 large onions, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 4 green chillies, slit lengthwise
• ½ tsp white pepper or black pepper, ground
• ½ tsp garam masala powder
• 2 tbsp fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped, for layering

Instructions

1. Wash the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear. Cover with fresh water and soak for 30 minutes, then drain well.
2. While the rice soaks, put the mutton, quartered onion, half of the ginger-garlic paste, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, peppercorns, cloves, both cardamoms, cinnamon, bay leaves and 2 tsp salt in a pressure cooker with the water.
3. Bring to a boil and skim off any grey foam. Close the lid and cook on medium heat for 35 minutes after the first whistle or full pressure, until the meat is tender and pulls easily from the bone.
4. Release the pressure, then strain the stock through a fine strainer into a jug. Set the meat aside and discard the whole spices and onion. You need 800 ml of stock, so top up with hot water if it is short, or boil to reduce if there is more.
5. Heat the oil or ghee in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, for 10–12 minutes until deep golden brown. Lift out about one-third and keep it aside for garnish.
6. Add the cumin seeds, remaining ginger-garlic paste and green chillies to the pot and fry for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add the cooked mutton and fry for 6–8 minutes, turning, until lightly browned on all sides.
7. Pour in the 800 ml hot stock, then add the pepper and garam masala. Bring to a rolling boil and taste; the stock should be slightly saltier than you would like to eat, as the rice will absorb it.
8. Gently add the drained rice and spread it level. Cook uncovered on high heat for 6–8 minutes, without stirring, until the liquid drops just below the surface of the rice and small steam holes appear.
9. Scatter the mint and the reserved fried onions on top. Poke a few holes in the rice with the handle of a spoon so steam can pass through.
10. Cover with a tight lid, place the pot on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 15 minutes (dum). The rice is done when the grains are long, separate and tender with no hard centre.
11. Turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff gently from the edges with a fork, lifting the meat from the bottom, and serve hot.

Tips

• Good stock is the whole dish: keep the spices whole and the seasoning light so the mutton flavour comes through.
• Do not stir the rice once it goes in, as basmati breaks easily when hot and wet.
• Measure the stock exactly. Too much gives soft, sticky rice; too little leaves the centres hard.
• Older, aged basmati gives longer, drier grains, so use it if you can.