Penne Arrabbiata

Ingredients

• 400 g penne
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1½ tsp dried red chilli flakes, plus more to taste
• 1 small fresh red chilli, finely chopped (optional)
• 800 g tinned whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp salt, plus 2 tbsp for the pasta water
• ½ tsp sugar, only if the tomatoes taste sharp
• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 40 g grated parmesan or pecorino, to serve (optional)

Instructions

1. Bring 4 litres of water to a boil in a large pot. While it heats, slice the garlic, chop the chilli and crush the tomatoes with your hands or a fork in a bowl.
2. Warm the olive oil in a deep frying pan over low-medium heat. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and fresh chilli and cook, stirring, until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant. Do not let it brown or it will turn bitter.
3. Stir in the tomato paste and oregano and cook for 1 minute until the paste darkens slightly.
4. Add the crushed tomatoes and their juice with 1 tsp salt. Bring to a gentle bubble, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered, stirring now and then, until the sauce thickens and the oil shimmers at the edges.
5. Meanwhile, add 2 tbsp salt to the boiling water and cook the penne for 1 minute less than the packet says, until firm to the bite. Scoop out 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.
6. Taste the sauce and add the sugar if it is sharp, plus more salt or chilli as needed. Tip the drained penne into the pan with 3 to 4 tbsp of pasta water.
7. Toss over medium heat until the sauce coats every piece and turns glossy. Add a splash more pasta water if it looks dry.
8. Stir through the parsley and serve straight away, topped with cheese if you like.

Tips

• Cook the garlic gently. Golden is right; brown garlic makes the sauce bitter.
• Add chilli in stages: flakes go in early for deep heat, fresh chilli adds a brighter kick.
• Starchy pasta water helps the sauce cling, so save some before draining.
• Finishing the pasta in the sauce for a minute lets it absorb flavour.