Penne Arrabbiata

Bring 4 litres of water to a boil in a large pot. While it heats, slice the garlic, chop the chilli and crush the tomatoes with your hands or a fork in a bowl.

Warm the olive oil in a deep frying pan over low-medium heat. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and fresh chilli and cook, stirring, until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant. Do not let it brown or it will turn bitter.

Stir in the tomato paste and oregano and cook for 1 minute until the paste darkens slightly.

Add the crushed tomatoes and their juice with 1 tsp salt. Bring to a gentle bubble, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered, stirring now and then, until the sauce thickens and the oil shimmers at the edges.

Meanwhile, add 2 tbsp salt to the boiling water and cook the penne for 1 minute less than the packet says, until firm to the bite. Scoop out 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.

Taste the sauce and add the sugar if it is sharp, plus more salt or chilli as needed. Tip the drained penne into the pan with 3 to 4 tbsp of pasta water.

Toss over medium heat until the sauce coats every piece and turns glossy. Add a splash more pasta water if it looks dry.

Stir through the parsley and serve straight away, topped with cheese if you like.