Spaghetti Bolognese

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot and celery with a pinch of the salt and cook, stirring often, until soft and sweet but not browned.

Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Turn the heat up to medium-high and add the beef mince.

Break the mince up with a wooden spoon and cook until all the pink has gone and it starts to brown and sizzle in the pan, with no watery liquid left.

Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it darkens to a brick red colour and smells rich.

Pour in the chopped tomatoes, hot stock and milk. Add the oregano, bay leaf, the rest of the salt and the pepper, and stir well, scraping up anything stuck to the base.

Bring to a gentle bubble, then lower the heat and simmer partly covered, stirring every 10 minutes. It is ready when the sauce is thick, glossy and a little oil pools at the edges. Add a splash of hot water if it gets too dry.

About 15 minutes before the sauce is ready, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add 2 tbsp salt. Cook the spaghetti about 1 minute less than the packet says, until just firm to the bite. Scoop out a mug of pasta water, then drain.

Remove the bay leaf and taste the sauce, adding salt and pepper if needed. Toss the spaghetti in the pan with the sauce over low heat for 1 minute, adding a splash of pasta water so the sauce clings to the strands.

Serve straight away, topped with grated cheese and torn basil or parsley.