Jalebi

Whisk the flour, cornflour, yeast and turmeric together in a large bowl. Add the yogurt and half the water and mix to a paste.

Gradually add the remaining water, whisking hard for 2–3 minutes until the batter is completely smooth and falls from the whisk in a thick, flowing ribbon, like pancake batter.

Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm place until the surface is bubbly and the batter smells lightly sour and has slightly increased in volume.

Make the syrup near the end of resting: put the sugar, 250 ml water, lemon juice and cardamom in a wide pan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

Simmer for 8–10 minutes until the syrup feels slightly sticky between two spoons and forms a thin thread when pulled. Stir in the saffron and rose water, then keep the pan on the lowest heat so the syrup stays warm.

Stir the rested batter once and pour it into a squeeze bottle or piping bag with a small hole about 4 mm wide. Do not beat it again, or the bubbles will be lost.

Heat the oil and ghee in a wide shallow pan over medium heat to about 165°C. A drop of batter should rise slowly and sizzle gently without browning at once.

Pipe a tight spiral, about 6 cm wide, with two or three overlapping rings and finish by crossing back over the lines. Fry 3–4 spirals at a time without crowding.

Fry for 1–2 minutes, turning once, until crisp and light golden. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain for a few seconds only.

Drop the hot jalebis into the warm syrup, press them under, and leave for 20–30 seconds, turning once, until they are glossy and syrup shows in the hollows.

Lift out onto a wire rack or plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat so each batch colours evenly. Serve warm.