Laal Maas

Cover the dried chillies with hot water in a small bowl and leave them to soften. Meanwhile, mix the mutton with the yogurt, ginger paste, turmeric and salt in a large bowl, then leave it to marinate.

Drain the softened chillies, keeping 3 tablespoons of the soaking water. Blend them with the 10 garlic cloves and that water into a smooth, deep red paste.

Melt the ghee in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the cumin, cardamom, cloves, bay leaves and cinnamon, and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, until deep golden brown, about 12 minutes. Add the crushed garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Add the marinated mutton with all its yogurt. Turn the heat up to medium-high and fry, stirring, until the meat is sealed and the liquid has mostly dried up, about 12 minutes.

Stir in the chilli paste, coriander powder and chilli powder if using. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring so the paste does not catch, until the ghee begins to separate at the edges.

Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly and simmer until the mutton is tender and pulls easily from the bone, about 60 minutes. Stir every 15 minutes and add a splash of hot water if the pot looks dry.

Remove the lid and cook on medium for 5 to 8 minutes if the gravy is thin. It is ready when the sauce clings to the meat and a layer of red ghee floats on top.

Turn off the heat and rest for 5 minutes, covered. Scatter over the coriander and serve hot.