Rasmalai

Bring the 1.5 litres of milk for the chenna to a full boil in a heavy pot, stirring now and then so it does not catch. Turn the heat to low.

Add the lemon-water mixture a tablespoon at a time, stirring gently. The milk will split into soft white curds and pale yellow-green whey within a minute or two. Stop adding lemon once the whey looks clear.

Pour the curds into a sieve lined with muslin. Rinse under cold running water for about 30 seconds to wash away the lemon taste. Gather the corners, twist, and gently squeeze out the water.

Hang the bundle over the sink or leave it in the sieve to drain for 30 minutes. It should be moist but crumbly, not dripping and not dry.

While the chenna drains, make the soaking milk. Simmer the 1 litre of milk with 80 g sugar, 4 cardamom pods and the milk powder over medium-low heat, stirring often, until reduced by about a quarter and lightly thickened. Stir in the saffron milk, nuts and kewra water, then set aside.

Tip the drained chenna onto a clean counter or large plate. Add the cornflour and baking powder and knead with the heel of your palm for 5 to 6 minutes until completely smooth and slightly greasy-soft with no grains. Cracks on the surface mean it needs more kneading.

Divide into 12 equal portions. Roll each into a smooth ball, then flatten gently to a disc about 1.5 cm thick with no cracks around the edges. They will swell as they cook.

In a wide pan, bring the 1 litre of water, 150 g sugar and 2 cardamom pods to a rolling boil. Slide in the discs in a single layer without crowding, cover, and cook at a steady boil for 12 to 15 minutes. They are done when they have roughly doubled in size, look puffed and float, and feel spongy when pressed.

Lift the discs out with a slotted spoon and let them sit on a plate for 2 minutes. Press each one gently between your palms to squeeze out most of the syrup, being careful not to break it.

Let the soaking milk cool for 10 minutes so it is warm, not hot. Lay the pressed discs in a serving dish and pour the milk over them so they are well covered.

Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. Garnish with extra pistachios before serving cold.