Achar Gosht

In a large bowl, mix the mutton with the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, red chilli powder, turmeric and salt. Massage well so every piece is coated, and leave it to marinate while you prepare the rest. If you have time, marinate for up to 4 hours in the fridge for more tender meat.

Toast the fennel, cumin, mustard, fenugreek and coriander seeds with the dried red chillies in a dry pan over low heat, shaking often, until fragrant and a shade darker. Do not let the fenugreek blacken or it will turn bitter.

Cool the spices for a minute, then grind them coarsely in a grinder or mortar. Stir in the nigella seeds whole and set aside.

Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, until deep golden brown, not dark brown.

Add the marinated mutton with all its yogurt. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring, until the meat changes colour and the liquid has mostly dried up.

Add the tomatoes and the ground spice mix. Keep frying (bhunai) until the oil separates and shimmers at the edges of the masala and the tomatoes have broken down into a thick paste.

Pour in 1½ cups of hot water and bring to a boil. Add the slit green chillies, cover tightly and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the meat is tender and pulls easily from the bone, adding a splash of hot water if the pot looks dry.

Uncover and check the gravy. If it is thin, cook uncovered on medium heat for a few minutes until thick and clinging to the meat, with a layer of oil on top. Stir in the lemon juice and the two whole green chillies and cook for 1 more minute.

Turn off the heat, scatter over the coriander and ginger matchsticks, and cover for 5 minutes before serving.