Kunna Gosht

Mix the atta with about 6 tbsp water to make a firm, soft dough. Cover and set aside; you will roll it into a rope later to seal the pot.

In a large bowl, combine the mutton, yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, coriander powder, turmeric, salt and black pepper. Mix well so every piece is coated, then marinate at room temperature.

Heat the ghee in the heavy pot over medium heat. Add the cumin, bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves and both cardamoms and let them sizzle for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, until deep golden brown. Lower the heat if they darken too fast.

Add the marinated mutton with all the yogurt, and the tomatoes. Raise the heat to medium-high and stir-fry until the meat changes colour, the tomatoes break down and the ghee begins to separate at the edges.

Pour in the water, tuck in the whole green chillies and scatter over half the ginger matchsticks. Bring to a gentle simmer, then turn the heat off.

Cover the pot with a sheet of foil, press the lid on top, then roll the dough into a rope and press it firmly around the rim so no steam can escape.

Place the pot on a tawa or heat diffuser over the lowest flame. Cook without opening it until the mutton is very tender and pulls easily from the bone.

Turn off the heat and let the pot rest, still sealed, so the juices settle. Then break the dough seal and lift the lid away from your face to avoid the steam.

Check the gravy: it should be thick and glossy with ghee on top. If it is watery, simmer uncovered on medium heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the garam masala, the remaining ginger and the fresh coriander, and serve hot.