Shinwari Lamb Karahi

Pat the lamb dry with paper towel. Heat the ghee in the karahi over high heat until it shimmers and smells nutty.

Add the lamb in one layer, working in two batches if your karahi is small. Sear, stirring only now and then, until the pieces are lightly browned on the outside.

Add the ginger-garlic paste and salt. Fry for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the raw smell is gone and the meat turns pale golden.

Add the chopped tomatoes and half of the green chillies. Cover, lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring every few minutes, until the tomatoes collapse into a soft pulp.

Uncover and cook on medium-high, mashing the tomatoes with the spatula, until the mixture thickens and the ghee begins to separate at the edges.

Add the crushed pepper, coriander, cumin and chilli flakes, if using. Stir for 1 minute, then pour in the hot water only if the pan looks dry. Cover, reduce to low and simmer until the lamb is tender when pierced with a knife. Check every 15 minutes and add a splash of hot water if it catches.

Take the pan off the heat for 1 minute, then stir in the yogurt quickly to stop it curdling. Return to medium-high and cook, stirring, until the sauce clings to the meat and a layer of ghee shines on top.

Add the remaining slit green chillies and half of the ginger matchsticks. Cook for 2 minutes so the chillies soften but stay bright green.

Turn off the heat. Scatter over the remaining ginger and the coriander. Rest for 5 minutes, then serve straight from the karahi.