Zarda

Wash the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear. Soak in fresh water for 30 minutes, then drain well.

Bring the 1.5 litres of water to a boil in a large pot with the cardamom, cloves and salt. Meanwhile, melt the ghee in a small pan over medium-low heat, add the almonds and fry for 1 minute, then add the pistachios, raisins and coconut and fry for 30 seconds until the raisins puff up. Remove the nuts with a slotted spoon and keep the ghee.

Add the drained rice to the boiling water and cook on medium-high heat for 6–7 minutes. It is ready when a grain breaks easily between your fingers but still has a firm white dot at the centre. Drain at once in a colander and discard the whole spices if you like.

Spread half the rice in the empty pot. Sprinkle over half the sugar, half the coloured milk and half the fried nuts and raisins.

Add the remaining rice in an even layer, then the rest of the sugar, colour and nuts, keeping a few nuts aside for garnish. Pour the warm ghee over the top and sprinkle with kewra water. Poke 4–5 holes down to the base with the handle of a spoon so the steam and syrup can travel.

Cover the pot with foil, then set the lid on tightly. Cook on the lowest heat for 18–20 minutes, until the sugar has melted into the rice and no liquid pools at the bottom.

Turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Fold the rice gently from the edges with a fork or flat spoon so the colour mixes evenly without breaking the grains. Top with the reserved nuts.